San Francisco North Beach
North Beach, the traditional Italian neighborhood, is vibrant and teaming with coffee shops in the morning, Italian restaurants in the day, and bars and strip clubs at night. The main thoroughfare, Columbus Avenue, begins at the base of the Transamerica Pyramid and cuts a diagonal across the city to Northpoint and Leavenworth. Stroll along Columbus and enjoy the smell of roasting coffee or fresh Italian food. At 261 Columbus, take a stop in the historic City Lights Books, which is still one of the best bookstores in the city. City Lights was a popular hang out for (an publisher of) beat poets and writers, including Lawrence Ferlinghetti (the store's founder), Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac.
At the corner of Columbus and Union, you'll find Washington Square Park from which you can look up Telegraph Hill to Coit Tower. The park is a nice place to relax during your stroll around the neighborhood. It also plays host to many street fairs and festivals, such as the North Beach Festival and the Upper Grant Avenue Fall Art Fair. The statue of Benjamin Franklin was donated to The City in 1879 by Henry Cogswell, a dentist who became rich by fitting the mouths of pioneers with gold teeth during the Gold Rush.
Saints Peter and Paul Church, consecrated in 1924, is also visible on the north side of the park at 666 Filbert Street. Many newlywed couples follow in the footsteps of Marilyn Monroe and Joe DiMaggio who were photographed in front of the church after their wedding on January 14, 1954. (They were actually married at the Civic Center, not at the church.)
Coffee Shops
Across from the City Lights Booksellers and Publishers at 255 Columbus Avenue (at Kerouac Alley), is the Vesuvio Café, which is known for supporting and publish many beat poets and writers, including Alan Ginsburgh and Jack Kerouac. This is the cafe where Myers read his poems about woman. The interior of the café was filmed at a location that is not part of our tour, so don't expect to see the map wall or the stage on which Myers reads his poems. Established in 1948, Vesuvio itself was a hang out spot for beat writers and artists. Jack Kerouac became a regular of the cafe and he famously spent a night here in 1960 when he should have been on his way to Big Sur to meet with Henry Miller. Kerouac called Miller every hour telling him that he was delayed leaving the city. Meanwhile he continued to drink. He never made it to see Miller that night. Today, the cafe continues to attract a diverse clientele.
At Columbus and Vallejo Street, you may want to hang a right and walk to a short block to the corner of Grant, where you'll find Caffe Trieste. Established in 1956, this little shop has the distinction of the very first expresso coffee house on the West Coast. (I bet you thought that the espresso coffee trend started in Seattle.)
Just up from Green Street, you can find Caffé Roma Coffee Roasting Co. another place to stop for a great cup of coffee and some people watching. You may want to pick up one of their t-shirts as an offbeat souvenir.
Adult Clubs
Since the early days of San Francisco, North Beach establishments were known to have a very open attitude towards sex. Even though the neighborhood is one of the hottest tourist destinations in San Francisco, this sexual freedom still reigns as North Beach has many adult entertainment establishments, including strip clubs (for example, Larry Flint's Hustler Club at 1031 Kearny) and adult bookstores, mixed among the Italian restaurants and coffee shops. I can't really tell you too much about these clubs, but Charlie and I were walking by one of these clubs one evening and a street caller invited us in. At which point, I grabbed Charlie's hand like I was holding it and indicated that we weren't interested. At which point, the caller raised his hand and pointing across the city, said "The Castro's over there." Despite it's apparent "straightness" today, North Beach was one of the first San Francisco neighborhoods that supported gay hangouts, this is likely due to the sexual openness that the neighborhood represented.
North Beach Gems
The following descriptions highlight some of the best establishments in Northb Beach.
Beach Blanket Babylon
Beach Blanket Babylon is quintessential San Francisco quirkiness and just plain good old fun. This comedic Cabaret musical review has been pleasing crowds since Steve Silver launched the production in 1974. If you feel like a bit of theatre while you're in San Francisco, Beach Blanket Babylon should be at the very top of your list. It features madcap musical numbers and the gags are constantly being updated for the latest political, entertainment and news events in San Francisco, California, and the United States.
The show is Cabaret style and Alcoholic beverages are served, so you'll need to be 21 to enter (except for the Sunday Matinée performance). I tried to sneak my 20-year-old sister into a performance and their very thorough security procedures filtered her out and prevented her from seeing the performance. (While we were in the show, she went out with a friend and was able to get into several bars without problem. Go figure.)
Performances are at Club Fugazi, 678 Beach Blanket Babylon Boulevard (Green Street) just off of Columbus Avenue. Tickets and more information can be found by calling their box office (415) 421-4222 or visiting their website. Book in advance, especially for a weekend performance, because the show often sells out.
XOX Truffles
While strolling along Columbus street, stop into XOX Truffles for tasty handmade chocolate delights. You can select from about 20 different varieties, including Amaretto, Rum Coco, Caramel, Coconut, Earl Grey, and Kahlua. There are also a few vegan selections made from soy for those of you with alternative diets. You can buy a box to take home, but if you're like me, they won't make it very far. I can't resist these little mouthfuls of fun. XOX Truffles is located at 754 Columbus Avenue (at Greenwich).
