San Francisco's Castro Neighborhood
The Castro is more formally known as Eureka Valley, which was the name for this neighborhood before this working-class district was homosexualized during the gay liberation movement of the 1960s and 70s. Even the locals these days simply refer to it as the Castro. The San Francisco Castro has become the gay mecca for gays who live in the midwestern United States, but don't set your expectations too high. I remember how disappointed I was by my first visit to the Castro on a trip that I made from Salt Lake City before moving here. I was expecting something magnificent, but instead I found a few streets with small shops and several gay bars. It was not until after moving to San Francisco that I began to appreciate the true magnificence of the San Francisco Castro, which lies more in it's history and the struggle for gay rights.
Harvey Milk Plaza
Just off of Market Street and at the entrance to the San Francisco Castro Muni station is Harvey Milk Plaza, which is named after the "Mayor of Castro Street." Milk played a large part in the gay liberation movement. He was elected to the San Francisco Board of Supervisors in 1977, but was assassinated the following year by Dan White, a fellow supervisor who also killed Mayor George Mascone the same evening. For more information on the emergence of the San Francisco gay community in the Castro and Harvey Milk, visit Uncle Donald's Castro Street.
The Castro Theatre
The Castro Theatre at 429 Castro Street (off Market) is a historic movie house that plays an unusual mix of independent, foreign, gay and camp films as well as playing host to the San Francisco International Gay and Lesbian Film Festival. The theatre was opened in 1922 and features a Wurlitzer organ that is used whenever silent films appear in the schedule. Additionally, the theatre features an Art Deco design of which the best components are the spectacular ceiling and gigantic chandelier.
Shopping and Restaurants
In recent years, the small neighborhood feel of San Francisco's Castro is being infiltrated by retail chains like Pottery Barn, Diesel Jeans and Starbucks. But, you'll still find plenty of small locally owned stores selling a huge variety of goods, including many stores that market and sell goods to gay locals and tourists. One of my favorite stores on Castro Street is Cliff's Variety (at 479 Castro), which is a small hardware store where you can buy household items, costumes, art and school supplies and as the name suggests a myriad of other items.
The corner of 18th Street and Castro marks the heart of the San Francisco neighborhood. From here many restaurants and gay bars are within a few blocks. Right at the intersection (500 Castro) is Harvey's, which plays dual roles as both a restaurant and a bar. Fuzio's, the Red Grill, Firewood Grill, the Sausage Factory and Khun Phoa Thai Cuisine are popular restaurants among San Franciscans. Just ask for directions on the corner and you'll be pointed in the right direction. Our good friends, Heidi and Erik, live a couple blocks from the Castro on 19th and Noe, so we tend to eat in the Castro frequently. If you're lucky, you may bump into us at one of these restaurants. If you do, be sure to say hi. After lunch, stop by the Hot Cookie (near the Castro theatre, follow your nose) for a fudge chocolate chip cookie.
Gay Bars
I tend to prefer San Francisco's neighborhood gay bars and in the Castro you can find just about any type of crowd. Neighborhood bars include Moby Dick, the Mix, Harvey's (all on 18th street) or the Metro (at Market and Noe). Midnight Sun is a great video bar that has lot's of live programming, so you might stop by on a Tuesday evening to watch American Idol. For dancing, you can go to Badlands (on 18th street) or The Café (on Market), which tends to have a very mixed, trendy crowd. Stop by The Bar (formerly The Bar on Castro or the BOC) across Castro street from the Castro theatre for dance music with a more S and M (Stand and Model) crowd. Daddy's, as it's name implies, is a leather bar. Twin Peaks (named after two hills overlooking the Eureka Valley) on the corner of Castro and Market has a reputation for attracting an older crowd. It's two exterior walls and the doorway angled on the corner have floor to ceiling windows providing you a great view of the street corner. The bar has the unflattering nickname of "The Glass Coffin" because of these windows and its older clientele. For a complete list of San Francisco Gay Bars with addresses and information, visit www.sfgaybarslist.com.
Castro Offbeat Gems
The following sections provides more information about a few of my favorite restaurants and eateries in San Franciso's Castro neighborhood.
Diamaru Sushi - 290 Sanchez Street
Erik has turned Charlie and I onto a great neighborhood sushi restaurant called Diamaru Sushi. Located a few blocks from the Castro at 290 Sanchez Street (at 16th Street), this friendly restaurant is often rated among the top sushi restaurants in San Francisco. The best part for me is the personal service offered by Giro, the proprietor. Whenever we go, we sit at the bar and without looking at a menu, we eat whatever Giro decides is good that day. What a treat. Many other customers receive the same type of royal treatment, turning them into loyal customers, as evidenced by the individualized sake boxes that Giro keeps on the shelf behind the bar. Giro is also happy to tailor his dishes to non-sushi eaters and vegetarians. Diamaru is open for dinner only.
Samovar Tea Lounge - 498 Sanchez Street
For an unbelievable selection of great teas from around the world and delectable edibles with an Asian flavor, be sure to check out Samovar, 498 Sanchez Street at 18th Street, just a couple blocks off Castro. Katty-corner across the street is a popular San Francisco yarn store, so you'll often see a Samovar patron enjoying a cup of tea while knitting a wool scarf or a pair of socks. When you step up to the counter to order, the selection of teas can be a little overwhelming. The menu includes selections from the five (yes there are five) tea types (white, green, oolong, black and pu-erh) plus many fine herbal tisanes, so take your time and ask the counter person for a suggestion. For a deep earthy tasting tea, try one of the pu-erh selections. For a more delicate flavored tea, try one of my personal favorites, the Darjeeling. If your feeling a little peckish, try a selection from their food menu. The portions tend to be small and the dishes are delicately presented. I really enjoy Grilled Ginger Tofu bento box, which is served with a side of rice encrusted with tea leaves.
